When it comes to model making, Epoxy is the solution to many of your working model needs. If you are a static model builder than this information is for reference use only, but interesting just the same.

There are books and books and videos on Epoxy and it's usages. So you are encouraged to research the subject further. Here I only hope to take some of the bugaboo unknowns out of the processes to at least make you think of possibly giving the idea a more than half hearted try. Fair enough?

Inexpensive sources for materials will be listed at the end.

Safety First always ware old close and shoes, disposable rubber gloves, eye protection when working with Epoxy. You may also wish to wear a respirator. And cover all work surfaces with sheet plastic, plastic wrap, or waxed paper.

What can epoxy do for you? Water proof the wood hull of your model inside and out. Add a hard surface undercoat to the exterior. Stick things together (weld if you wish) stronger at the joint than the material being used. Promote the use of fiberglass cloth for strength in abrasive or tender areas such as the bottom that will be run aground or corners that may be damaged.

You may have missed the words "undercoat to the exterior" above. Epoxy by itself is subject to deterioration from UV rays and thus requires a UV barrier coat of opaque paint or varnish for protection.

Epoxies come in two parts (rosin "2" and hardener "1"), and are mixed together prior to application. Different companies products have different ratios to make the correct mix. The simpler mix is 1:2 (one to two) by volume (not by weight). The more difficult mixes are 1:5 and you can see where a little to much or to little of the "1" would have a large difference on how the outcome of mixing with the "5" could be. My suggestion is to stay with the 1:2 until you get a real feel for the process and then experiment with 1:5 if you wish.

The curing time of your mix depends on three things. The hardener (the "1" in the mix) being formulated for: slow, normal, or fast curing. The second variable of curing time is ambient temperature. Cold is slow curing where as hot is quick curing. Most manufacture chart information compares curing to the normal temperature of 77 degrees (F). The final curing time is surface and this is most noticeable in the container that you mix the two parts. A narrow container will have a small surface area to the volume and will "go off" much sooner than large flat container like a tuna fish can or the plastic tray you get meat in from the grocery store. This also applies to fast bonding two parts closely together or slow surface coating the hull.

Now how in the heck do you measure correctly the ratio of 1 to 2? For large jobs you purchase a set of "Mustard Pumps" and attach the correct pump to the correct bottle/jug. The correct set of pups measure one unit for the large jug and the other measure one half unit for the smaller jug. Push the plunger all the way down and squirt the correct amount of ingenious into your mixing container. One pump of this and one of that. To double the amount do not do two of this and two of that. The correct way is to one of this and one of that, one of this and one of that so you are getting a mixing even as you measure out the total amount you wish to use. The pumps generally extrude one liquid ounce and one half liquid ounce respectfully at a full pump.

OK that is all fine and dandy, but.... The mustard pumps are to large for the small containers I have, or... I wish to make less than one and a half ounces of total mix. My solution to these problems is: First to place a strip of masking tape up the side of both containers starting at the bottom and extending above the liquid level. Then taking a pair of proportional dividers set for 1 to 2 and measure the half way height of the liquid in each container and mark the masking tape. Then measure and mark the height of half of the half below and above the half way mark you made originally. That marks the one quarter amount of each container. Do it again to the quarter marks to show the one eight amounts. Now with two large soda straws or two length of plastic tubing, plunge one straw into one of the marked containers all the way to the bottom and then cap the top end with your finger and slowly withdraw the straw noting where the liquid level is in the container with regards to the 7/8 mark. If the level is below the 7/8 mark drain a bit of liquid from the straw back into the container by lifting you figure from the end of the straw momentarily. When the level in the container reaches the 7/8 mark, place the straw over the mixing pot and lift your finger from the top end. Now with the other straw do the same procedure to the other container. And with Kentucky Wind age you will have a good estimate of how much to remove from the second container. If your first operation was from the small container, then your second operation will be to remove twice as much on the second go round from the larger container. You may have to make several dips until the level is down to the 7/8 mark.

I understand that this may be a bit confusing the first time around. A small measuring scale seems like it would work by weight instead of volume, but the solutions are not equally dense. The operative word is "volume" not weight.

 Now that you have the correct proportions in the mixing pot, stir with a flat ended stick for several minutes until you are sure it is all well mixed. Be sure to scrap the sides as you do this to get a complete mixing. Once you are mixed take your cheep-O brush and apply to the work area as thinly as you can spread it. On large flat areas you may find that you can pour the mix from the pot on the area and then spread it out with one of those play plastic credit cards they keep sending in the mail.

Every thing I have found on the subject states that when you are finished you have only two solutions to what you do with your brush or roller. Either clean them with Acetone (almost as good an explosive as Contact Cement) or toss them out. Only one place have I found what to me is a better solution. Plane old white vinegar will clean up your tools fine. Most likely Cider Vinegar will do fine too, but save that for Carolina Bar-B-Q making or for your salads.

Another startling thing is that if you use normal hardener and work in an area where the temperature is below 70 (F) the first times out, you will find that it seems like the mix will never "go off". You are not going to be going along and the brush cures standing up right in the middle of a painting stroke. When you have finished and cleaned your tools, move the work to a wormer area or turn up the heat or up the A/C to 70 or above and let it sit overnight. Every 18 degrees (F) rise in temperature will cut the curing time in half.

Next you may be interested in researching using Epoxy for fillet work and as an adhesive by adding other components to you standard 1:2 mix.

Now for inexpensive sources for supplies for your learning process. And please note that I in no way endorse any of the listed companies. Only suggest them as a possibility that you may wish to explore.

Paint brushes both "chip" and "acid/horse hair" : www.harborfreight.com

Epoxy "Marinepoxy Trial Kit" :    www.boatbuildercentral.com

Epoxy, paints, tools: www.jamestowndistributors.com

Tony Ashdon
Tony@Ashdons.com
www.Ashdons.com